1. Which ski is right for me?
1.1 Things to consider
When choosing what ski is right for you, there’s a few key points to keep in mind: Think about what your ability is, your riding style, your preferred terrain and how you want to progress. Once this is clear to you, think about your skis: You should consider length as well as width. It is also worth looking into turning radii and rocker types so you know what sort of ski is perfect for you.
1.2 About You
1.2.1 Ability & where you want to be - Levels of skiing
It’s important to be honest about your level of skiing. If you underestimate or overestimate your skiing ability then you might end up with the wrong skis. Where are you now and where do you want to be at the end of the season? If you want to work on your level, it helps to choose a ski that will help you progress and bring your skiing up a gear, rather than choosing a ski that is too much to handle and won’t help you progress.
If you currently stick to piste skiing (groomers) but you’re keen to start skiing both off-piste and on piste, we recommend looking at skis that are versatile enough for both terrains. If you want to become more freeride orientated, you should look at getting slightly wider skis. If you want to progress in the park, consider twin tip skis with a waist no wider than ~102mm.
You’re new to skiing or still working on linking smoother turns. Your skis should have a soft flex, narrow widths, soft wood cores and capped/semi-capped constructions - these elements will give you a ski that is easy to turn and more forgiving when making mistakes. The shorter the ski the easier it will be to handle and so for intermediate rippers, we recommend a ski that is between chin and eye height.
You like to carve on groomers, ski in powder and are comfortable charging fast. Generally, we recommend you choose skis that are the same width or wider than beginner/intermediate skis and have a stronger wood core and sandwich side wall construction. The extra width will give you a more versatile ski to float through deeper days as well as the extra durability you’ll need when you’re dialing in those cliff drops and first tricks in the park.
No matter what terrain, you will need skis that are made for a more aggressive riding style. Your skis will often contain layers of titanal, carbon, flax and other materials to improve their performance at speed and extreme conditions. Choose a ski width that suits the terrain you ski, narrow for park rats and hard snow rippers, medium width for all mountain aficionados and budding freeriders, and finally a wide ski for you backcountry, pillow-poppin’, powder slayers.
As for your construction, choose a flex that suits your style of skiing: softer flexes (6/10) for buttering like Alex Hall through to stiffer flexes (10/10) to stomp cliff drops all day like Sam Anthamatten.
1.2.2 Think of your skiing style as a 'personality'
Everyone skis differently, nobody is the same. Most skiers prefer one or the other of the following attributes:
Aggressive VS relaxed
Surfy turns VS carving/locked in
1.2.3 The conditions you ski in
220.127.116.11 Where do you ski on the mountain?
- All over the mountain
- Piste only
18.104.22.168 What are the average snow conditions like?
- Mainly powder/soft: Japan, US and Canadian West coast
- Variable: Alps, Southern Alps, Andes, Pyrenees
- Harder/wind scoured: US and Canadian East coast, Scotland, Korea
22.214.171.124 Will you be touring?
- A little
- Yes, frequent and long days
1.3 Your Skis' Dimensions
1.3.1 Ski width
This is measured at the waist (middle), which is usually the narrowest point of the ski. Generally narrower skis are better on groomers/piste and at making tighter turns as they are easier to shift from edge to edge. Wider skis, however, provide better flotation in powder and soft snow.
All Faction skis’ dimensions are reflected in a 3 number measurement.
1.3.2 Turning radius
Tip, waist and tail width of a ski determine the shape of a ski and its turn radius. The narrower a ski’s waist is in relation to its tip and tail, the shorter the turn radius and the deeper the sidecut. A ski with a shorter turn radius will make quicker turns, while a ski with a long turn radius will turn more slowly - this means it will be more stable at high speeds but more difficult to handle for intermediate skiers.
The longer the ski the larger the radius it will have. This is because, normally, a longer ski equals a taller skier, which means they are generally heavier and/or stronger. Therefore they have more power to turn the ski and so the radius can be longer, increasing the skis stability without reducing performance.
Generally, if you are skiing all over the mountain you should look for a radius between 16 and 24.
If you are solely skiing off piste the radius of your ski matters much less, as you very rarely have the whole ski engaged on a hard surface. If you’re skiing mainly in powder or soft snow, don’t be scared of a high radius.
Note: Many people look for a short turn radius but this has a number of negative side effects. The skis become jittery and unstable when you are not turning and so at medium to higher speeds they can become unstable. In softer conditions they also become hooky, this means that you can catch your tip/tail more easily as the powder snow creates drag on the ski. To counteract this some of our skis have a multi dimension or elliptical radius sidecut, you can learn more about these here: 3.3.2 Multi Dimension Sidecut and 3.3.3 Elliptical Radius Sidecut
1.3.3 Camberline and Rocker Types
126.96.36.199 What is camber and rocker?
The camberline of a ski is how it looks from the side when placed on a flat surface, skis with traditional camber bend upwards in the middle. Skis with rocker bend up earlier in the ski whether it’s the front or the back of the ski.
Traditional skis are fully cambered, if you put the skis base to base they will only make contact at the tip and the tail. This helps the skier to apply even and concentrated pressure on the edge in the tip and tail. However in softer conditions this causes the tip to dive, meaning you’ll lose speed and might go head over heels in deep snow!
Rocker is also called reverse camber and is basically the exact opposite to camber. Rocker skis, based on water skis and boat designs, provide better float in powder and make it easier to initiate turns with a smaller chance of ‘catching an edge’. Rocker also helps make skis more maneuverable; because they are easier to pivot. In general, the fatter the ski, the more rocker it has.
All of our skis have a blend of camber underfoot and rocker in the tip and tail to ensure you get the best of both worlds.
This shape combines the float of a rockered ski with the added edge hold of a cambered ski. The contact points are closer towards the middle of the ski than a fully cambered ski, but not underfoot. This provides better edge hold and stability on hardpack while at the same time enabling great float in powder and easier turn initiation. This combination is great for almost anyone that is skiing off-piste, in variable conditions or all over the mountain. Due to this we use variations of this camberline on almost all our skis.
Faction Skis with this camberline:
The entire Prodigy adult series
Mana 2 & Mana 2x
Mana 3 & 3x
The entire Dancer series
The entire Dancer x series
The entire Agent series
Decreasing the camber aims to provide the same advantages as having a combination of rocker and camber underfoot but is better for lighter (junior) skiers.
Faction Skis with this camberline:
- Le Mono
1.4 Common mistakes
1. Buying a ski because everyone else has it (or a certain athlete has it). Take your time to figure out what model is actually right for you.
2. Purely based on test results (a certain group of testers at a certain level in a certain resort may not reflect what ski is right for you)
3. Over- or underestimating your ability
4. You had questions but never had them answered! If you have any queries, we’d be happy to help, just shoot us a message on our live chat.
2. Our Skis
Our skis are separated into 7 series.
Each series is made up of 4+ ski models, each sharing similar characteristics. The 1.0 is the narrowest in the series, the 4.0 (or 5 Max for the La Machine series) is the widest. Generally, the softer the snow you are going to be skiing in, the wider your skis should be which corresponds to a larger number. For example, 1.0 or 2.0 skis are generally for harder/all-mountain conditions, whereas the wider 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 skis are more orientated for softer and deeper snow and those lucky parts of the world that get fresh snow consistently.
All our skis are handmade in Europe with factories in Austria, Czech Republic, Ukraine and Poland.
2.1 PRODIGY SERIES
2.2 THE MANA SERIES
MANA 2: All-mountain with a freestyle bias
MANA 3, 4: Sidecountry to backcountry, lightweight (tourable) and playful (if you want to huck big cliffs look at the Prodigy or Dancer series)
2.3 DANCER SERIES
Dancer 1, 2 Firmer conditions/all-mountain, great for on-piste riding
Dancer 3, 4: Freeride skis that love to be skied hard and fast (not good on a hangover!)
2.4 AGENT SERIES
Agent 1.0: Lightweight free-touring with an on-piste emphasis
Agent 2.0: Lightweight all mountain and free-touring that can handle everything
Agent 3.0: Lightweight all mountain and free-touring with an emphasis on big lines
Agent 4.0: Lightweight all mountain and free-touring with an emphasis on deep snow and big lines
2.5 LA MACHINE SERIES
Made for the deepest powder, whether it be in the breathtaking Japanese valleys or in the remote mountains of western Canada. This ski allows effortless floatation and intuitive handling, allowing you to go up for another run even when your legs are screaming.
Attributes: Ultra-light and generous tip and tail rocker for the deepest powder and free-touring
La Machine 1 Micro: Lightweight rocker free-touring
La Machine 2 Mini: Lightweight rocker free-touring
La Machine 3 Mega: Lightweight rocker freeride
La Machine 5 Max: Lightweight deep powder freeride
La Machine G Grom: Lightweight freeride grom
2.6 THE X SERIES
We create our women's skis - the X Series - with the exact same construction as the main range, but with an alternate topsheet. This means, the exact same high quality materials, and premium manufacturing for ladies who rip.
Women’s ski can be recognized with the “X” in the model name:
Prodigy 0X, Prodigy 1X, Prodigy 2X and Prodigy 3X
Dancer 1X, Dancer 2X and Dancer 3X
Agent 1X, Agent 2X and Agent 3X
2.7 THE OUTCAST SERIES
2.8 Junior Skis
Our junior skis are designed to be softer for easier turning and have no camber for easier pivoting, spinning and surfing. Instead of the usual foam core, our kids skis have a wood sandwich construction to provide a more stable ski. They are designed to allow kids to progress quickly and explore a freestyle inspired ski.
Our Junior & Youth skis:
Prodigy 0 JR, Prodigy 1 JR, Prodigy 2 YTHProdigy 0X JR
Prodigy 0 JR, Prodigy 1 JR, Prodigy 2 YTH
Prodigy 0 X JR
Dancer 2 YTH
3. Ski Tech Guide
For details on each ski length, feel free to download our technical specifications guide.
3.1.1 Poplar Core
Poplar is a light-coloured, medium-weight, durable softwood that flexes and pops nicely as well as having a whole load of vibration absorption capabilities. Used as the only wood in this core, it allows the ski to pop, butter and stomp like a park ski and also have enough torsional stability to grip impressively on the downhill.
3.1.2 Poplar/Beech Core
Poplar is a light-coloured, medium-weight, durable softwood that flexes and pops nicely as well as having a whole load of vibration absorption capabilities. The darker-coloured, heavier hardwood, Beech, adds stiffness and rebound. The results are a reasonably light ski that grips great and feels snappy between turns - always maintaining a soft enough flex to pop, slash and butter all over the mountain.
3.1.3 Poplar/Ash Core
Poplar is a light-coloured, medium-weight, durable softwood that flexes and pops nicely, as well as having awesome vibration absorption capabilities. Ash is a heavier hardwood, that compliments Poplar by stiffening up the ride and adding some extra durability. This duo provides a chatter-free hold on hard snow, a solid base for stomping landings and more than enough pop and flex to get creative with.
3.1.4 LIGHTWEIGHT BALSA/PACHACO CORE
Balsa is a softwood with exceptional strength for its light weight. Reinforce that with the lesser-known, unique Pachaco hardwood, as well as a small amount of Poplar, and you are left with a rare combination that ensures a lightweight yet solid ski setup that performs in all conditions.
3.1.5 LIGHTWEIGHT PAULOWNIA/POPLAR CORE
Paulownia is a stable and lightweight hardwood which is combined with the softwood Poplar, to add some flex and extra pop. The mix of these two woods results in a lightweight core with excellent responsiveness and rebound.
3.1.6 LIGHTWEIGHT KARUBA CORE
Karuba is an extremely lightweight woodcore with good strength properties. Despite being little-known, Karuba provides a good flex and vibration absorption capabilities without adding weight, making it an ideal woodcore for a touring ski that performs just as well on the uphill as on the downhill.
3.2.1 THE MANA SHAPE
As of today, the MANA’s shape has been refined to the point of perfection --- a blend of new ideas and old truths. The award-winning ski’s iconic silhouette known as the CT series is now represented across the entire MANA line. Moderately tapered tips and tails are complemented by an elliptical radius sidecut for efficient, precise handling and carving. A combination of generous rocker and modest camber results in a wonderfully playful character, injecting new energy into an otherwise routine day on the mountain. The MANA is designed to be proportional as you descend from the deep-snow-loving 4.0 to the 2.0 daily driver. For the increasingly popular category of high-performance all-mountain skis with freestyle flair, a new benchmark has been set.
3.2.2 Directional true twin
This shape is inspired by symmetrical freestyle ski design, but tweaked for a freeride approach. A slightly skinnier tail width than tip width means this ski is faster and performs better on the downhill than a completely symmetrical ski. It keeps the identical twin tip height for switch skiing and landings.
3.2.3 Directional twin
A considerably skinnier tail width than in the tip provides ultimate downhill performance for attacking the mountain, but still allowing you to release the tail when you want to. A twin tip in the tail encourages playfulness and freestyle attitude, meaning you can ride switch without a problem.
3.2.4 Progressive flat tail
Innovative design, which blends the turn stability and speed of a traditional flat tail shape with a generous amount of perfectly calculated tail rocker, engineered to reward pivots and slashes. Stable to ski at high speeds, playful and easy to initiate turns at lower speeds – this shape exceeds expectations.
3.2.5 Freeride flat tail
Traditional flat tail design is built for speed, ultimate edge grip and control throughout charging turns. Brought into the modern day with a slight tail rocker, this shape is easier than ever to slash your turn into a slarve and won’t hook up in fresh conditions.
3.3.1 Surf Zones
Surf Zone unites Rocker and Taper design to make sure these two key features work in harmony. Rocker provides float and facilitates pivoting, while a Tapered Tip moves the widest part of the ski closer to the centre and removes unwanted hooking. The right amount of both, in the right place, to promise a floaty, seamless, surfy ride in all conditions.
3.3.2 MULTI DIMENSION SIDECUT
Multi-dimension sidecut blends multiple arcs to create a sidecut geometry that changes along the length of the ski. This manoeuvrable shape consists of a shorter radius underfoot, keeping the ski nimble on those steep and narrow entries, and longer radii blended out to the tip and tail that ensure a stable ride in all conditions.
3.3.3 ELLIPTICAL RADIUS SIDECUT
Elliptical Radius Sidecut is made up of a longer radius underfoot and shorter radii in the tip and tail of the ski. The long radius underfoot means you can pivot faster and easier, while a shorter radius in the tip and tail result in seamless turn initiation. This sidecut allows for a wide variety of turns lengths and angles.
3.3.4 Extended TIP/TAIL ROCKER
The term and concept of Rocker is inspired by waterskiing (and skiing legend Shane McConkey), where floatation is key. We employ Extended Rocker, a reverse camber shape in the tip and tails, which along with waist width, is the most important element in providing float in fresh snow. Extended rocker also makes pivoting and turn initiation easier and means you have less chance of catching an edge.
3.4.1 DUAL SPAN TITANAL
Titanal is one of the most sturdy metals out there. Its isotropic qualities, equally strong in all directions, mean that the ski loves being on an edge, blasts through bumps and feels stable even in changeable snow, making it the perfect chassis for a holy grail, hard-charging freeride ski.
3.4.2 FULL CARBON WEAVE
Between 8 and 12 strips of carbon, sandwiching either side of the ski’s woodcore, are laid unidirectionally, providing extra stability to the ski, without adding weight to the build. Each carbon strip is woven into the fiber glass to provide strength and stiffness in the full length of the ski.
3.4.3 TEXTREME CARBON
A full layer of laminate, the spread-tow structure weaves at varying angles and axes, spreading stability and stiffness across the whole ski. The weave is made up of thin strips that are resistant to even the smallest cracks and fissures, so your skis defy expectations for longer - thinner, lighter and stronger than regular carbon.
3.4.4 XL 2.5MM EDGES
7 fractions of a millimetre might not sound like much, but when it comes to edges, it adds up. The 2.5 mm edges on our skis stack an extra 35% of height on top of our already super-durable standard 1.8mm edges. This extra steel gives the rider a pair of skis that are going to take more abuse and last longer.
3.4.5 TITANAL/RUBBER STOMP PAD
Titanal and rubber reinforcement underfoot adds additional strength to a freestyle ski, where it matters most. As well as protecting the wood core against heavy duty impact on rails, the titanal and rubber adds stability and vibration absorption under your boots, so that stomped landings feel better, both for you and your skis.
3.4.6 TITANAL BINDING PLATE
When you’re on a day-long touring trip in the backcountry, you need to be able to rely on your gear. Titanal reinforcement plates are laid up on top of our lightweight cores ensuring that your binding screws hold like nothing else. This one-piece design fits alpine and touring bindings, adding trustworthy durability to these lightweight cores, so there’s nothing holding you back on your next backcountry adventure.
3.5.1 ANTI-CHIP MICRO CAP
Micro-cap construction is a hybrid of two construction techniques: a premium, sandwich sidewall construction fused with a lightweight, durable cap construction. With micro-cap, the sandwich construction provides awesome edge hold and torsional stability while the ski’s topsheet wraps around and meets the sidewall, protecting the fragile joint that can be prone to chipping.
3.5.2 FULL STRENGTH SIDEWALL
A construction that places strups of protective material along the sides of each core, between the edge and the topsheet. Sidewalls provide the best possible edge hold and stability when the ski is engaged in a turn as well as protecting the woodcore, edges and topsheet from impact and outside damage.
3.5.3 HIGH RESISTANCE TOPSHEET
We use the highest quality topsheet material available, and we test it rigorously to ensure that it stands up to regular abuse. It is all sourced near our factories in Europe for a friendlier supply chain and less environmental impact.
3.5.4 THE MANA SIGNATURE FLEX
If you desire to always be tinkering, tweaking, learning, and improving. The MANA line features a heavy rocker that works best when combined with solid, stiffer tips and tails to help settle the skis and power through variable snow. Additionally, the stiff tips absorb more vibration when the skiers touch down after going airborne. Just add a touch more flex underfoot and it allows the skis to load up and pop on request.
3.5.5 THE MANA SIGNATURE STANCE
As if the MANA Signature Flex and Shape weren’t enough, we discovered a new, unique mounting point. The narrowest spot on the ski is in the center of the radius, and it happens to be the most intuitive place from which to initiate a pivoring of the funk-freaky-freestyle variety. Mounting here also works wonders for carving and popping off the back and front of your skis.
3.6.1 1% FOR THE PLANET
As a proud member of 1% For the Planet, we are committed to donating 1% of all sales from the Agent Series to support organizations, individuals and events that are focused on bringing about a positive impact on the environment we love and enjoy. Our partnership with 1% For the Planet extends far beyond financial aid: our teams collaborate on volunteer and research projects, as well as marketing initiatives.
Our poplar, beech and ash cores are sourced from the forests that surround our European factories. We are proud to process our wood cores locally and sustainably.
In an effort to reduce the impact of our supply chain, we strive to source materials from European companies that are based near our factories.
At Faction, we say “quality is sustainability.” If we make the most durable ski possible, that allows our fans to enjoy their skis that much longer - keeping skis out of landfills. We rigorously test our materials and our construction to ensure our skis hold up to even the toughest abuse.
3.6.5 B CORP CERTIFIED
We are very proud to announce that Faction is officially a Certified B Corporation, joining a collective of future-thinking, impact-driven brands who meet high standards for social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability.
4. OUR POLES
The choice of your pole model comes down to personal preference. Go for a pole that looks best to you and fits your daily skiing style.
Faction Series: Made from lightweight yet durable aluminium, the Faction poles are strong enough to whack your way through that cornice, comfortable enough to punch out on cliff drops and celebrate that stomped landing with a double pole plant. Delivered with interchangeable freeride baskets (80 mm and 60 mm) and with extended rubber grips, these sticks are sure to keep you stoked all over the mountain.
Dancer Series: Available in four eye-catching colourways that match our brand-new Dancer Series skis, the Dancer poles are made to enhance your shred all over the mountain. Strong, lightweight aluminium with 2k soft rubber grips and adjustable straps ensure comfort and dependability when you need it most, whether you’re arcing high-speed turns, or planting to avoid that incoming Aspen tree. Size from 110 to 135 cm.
Agent Series: The Agent pole is a lightweight, adjustable touring pole perfect for skiers who like to get out on expeditions or who need to change the length of their pole throughout the day. Made from lightweight aluminium, with an extended rubber grip and interchangeable freeride baskets (60 mm and 80 mm), this pole is the perfect companion for your next expedition. Size from 110 to 145 cm.
Prodigy Junior Series: The same aluminium material used in our lightweight, dependable adult models, tailored down with shorter lengths and customised grips for the younger rippers on the hill. Size from 80 to 105 cm.
The ideal pole length is dependent on the conditions and type of skiing you do. For on and off piste skiing, you will need a pole slightly lower than elbow height. To measure this, grab a pole upside down, under the basket. When you do this, you will want your elbow to be slightly lower than 90 degrees. Remember that the pole below the basket, which sticks into the ground, shouldn’t be considered when judging pole height. For skiing in the park we recommend a shorter pole at around hip height or slightly higher, this won’t get in the way when you’re grinding rails or spinning off booters. You especially want to avoid your poles being in your way or flying around when you are spinning and the best way to do so is to choose a shorter length pole.
If you’re into touring, or ski freeride lines one day and the park the next, it’s worth looking into adjustable poles so you can change their length depending on the conditions you are skiing in and the type of skiing you are getting after.
While the table below offers a good starting point you may want to go a little shorter if you're riding in the park, or a little longer if you ski on steeper terrain.
|Skier Height (in cm)||Skier Height (inches)||Pole Length (cm)|
|145cm or less||57" or less||100cm or less|
|145 - 153cm||57" - 60"||105cm|
|154 - 160cm||61" - 3"||110cm|
|161 - 168cm||64" - 66"||115cm|
|169 - 175cm||67" - 69"||120cm|
|176 - 183||70" - 72"||125|
|184 - 190||73"-75""||130cm|
|+ 191cm||+ 76"||135cm|
5. OUR BINDINGS OFFERING
5.1.1 ADULT BINDINGS
We offer two different adult models of Look bindings on our website, the SPX and the Pivot.
The SPX Series is a more lightweight binding, geared more towards intermediate riders who are not looking at spending time in the park or at riding big mountain lines.
The Pivot series is constructed with more metal and is a burlier, heavier binding. They have a unique turntable heel piece, unlike any other binding available on the market, which means that the elasticity of the heel piece is greater than that of the SPX so it will allow your boot to pivot more before it releases, reducing the risk of pre-releasing in certain situations.
5.1.2 JUNIOR BINDINGS
We offer two different junior bindings from Look on our website, the NX Junior 7 and the Team 4. Both of these bindings have shorter mounting screws than normal adult bindings, and must be used on youth skis.
The NX Junior 7 has a slightly higher DIN range, from 2-7, so it will allow younger riders to grow with the binding as they progress more.
The Team 4 binding is great for young kids learning how to ski, and offers a lightweight construction that is intuitive to get in and out of, with a DIN range of 0.75-4.5.
The DIN setting is the force needed for a binding to release to prevent injuries. The higher the DIN, the more pressure is needed for the ski to come off. The bindings we offer are available in different levels of DIN to suit a variety of riders.
The SPX is available in 10 or 12 DIN.3The Pivot is available in 12, 14 and 15 DIN.
The Pivot 14’s have a higher DIN range as the 12, with the same construction, which is better suited for more advanced, aggressive and heavier skiers, or riders wanting their skis to not release as easily. The Pivot 15 is an all-metal construction, which is heavier but more durable to major impacts and for those pushing their limits.
We always recommend that you have your skis mounted and adjusted by a professional.
5.3 BRAKE WIDTH
You will also need a brake size that fits the waist width of the ski; bindings tend to fit skis that are up to around 1-2 mm wider than the width of the binding’s brake. For example, with the Prodigy 2.0, because it has a 98 mm waist either the SPX 12 100 mm or the Pivot 14 95 mm would be the best choices.
6. OUR SKINS
For the “furst” time in a long time, fur-based climbing skins are benefitting from a remarkable tech upgrade: this new development is unique, completely understandable and obvious! The first waterproof climbing skin enhances the performance of the adhesive layer (fur) and climbing layers. This has a tremendous impact against glopping (snow sticking against fur), helping keep the skins light and dry on the way up. The innovative mechanical fabric is ultra-thin and compact at the same time and has an incredible feel that combines robustness with fine handling. Made of 65% mohair and 35% nylon, these skins are made by Kohla in Austria.
The clips that come with the skins are compatible with all of our skis, flat-tails and twin-tips.
The Dancer and Agent Series come with notches on the tail that are perfectly suited for the clips on the skins. However, these can be used relatively well with twin tip skis as well (for example on the MANA 3).
Models available for 21|22:
Agent 1 and 1X skins: custom made to fit the Agent 1 and 1X skis in lengths 154, 162, 170, 178 and 186 cm
Agent 2 and 2X skins: custom made to fit the Agent 2 and 2X skis in lengths 155, 163, 171, 179 and 187 cm
Multifit 130: 130 mm wide, these skins can be used on all ski models. They come with a cutting tool to trim them to the correct width of your skis. They are available in the following lengths:
- XS for ski length from 151 to 160 cm
- S for ski length from 161 to 170 cm
- M for ski length from 171 to 180 cm
- L for ski length from 181 to 190 cm
7. How do I look after my skis?
Looking after your skis is essential to increase their life-span and maintain performance. Your local shop will be able to help you maintain your skis for you, however learning how to do it yourself is less pricey and is a cool way to learn more about your gear. There are two important factors in maintaining your skis: keeping the edges sharp and the bases waxed/smooth.
At Faction we’re committed to reducing waste – we will help advise on the best course of action to maintain and fix your skis and give you all the advice you need, no matter how old your skis are.
7.1 Your Edges
The edges (the metal that runs along the base of your ski) help you to hold an edge on snow and ice so you can grip to make turns. Your edges can easily go rusty and small dents can impact your ability to hold an edge and carve a turn on hard snow and ice.
Our recommended edge angles are:
Side edge angle: 2 degrees
Base bevel (bottom side edge): 1 degree
Once you have sharpened your edges, you need to de-tune the tip and tail so they do not catch (you do this with a gummy stone). A sharp tip and tail can make the ski seem much harder to ski than if they are detuned. Edges are meant to be sharp and therefore can cause damage to your skis (and other items (clothes/gloves/bags/cars etc.) if you are not careful!
Rails and Edges
If you are regularly in the park and are hitting rails often you must make sure to detune and round off your edges first, particularly underfoot, to ensure your skis last longer, and slide more smoothly on the rails and boxes. If you do not round your edges, you will catch them on the boxes/rails which will cause edge cracks and reduce the lifespan of your skis, and also increase your chances of falling.
7.2 Your Base
The base needs to be kept smooth and waxed to allow you to slide well. Waxing is important to maintain the performance of your bases, if you do not wax your skis regularly they will dry out and will not glide as well, and the base can eventually start cracking and deteriorate.
As well as regularly waxing them, your skis should also be regularly checked for scratches, gouges and core-shots. These should be evened out and repaired – we recommend doing this at your local store. You can purchase ptex sticks on your own that you melt in, however, they contain paraffin and other compounds, and do not get as hot to bond with the base, so they have a tendency to crack and fall out. These are great for short term fixes, but does not provide the same long-term repair that a shop can.
After between 21 and 45 days of skiing you should get your bases ground, this ensures the bases are fully flat and clean, as well as restructure the base pattern, so it glides better. We recommend going to your local store to get your bases ground as it requires special machinery. If a store is grinding your bases they will also give them a wax.
All our skis are already waxed by the factory so there is no need to get your skis waxed immediately after purchase.
Wax generally lasts 7-10 days on the mountain so we recommend that you invest in some wax and an iron and learn how to wax your skis. Alternatively you can ask your local store to wax your skis. If your bases start to look dry, often indicated by a slight white tint on the base, it is time to get them waxed. If you ignore this and it gets worse, you will need to get the bases ground by your local shop to remove the dry base, so that they can be properly waxed.
Note that the wax you put on your skis eventually comes out of the base and ends up on the mountain and in local watercourses (eventually ending up at sea). To reduce the impact on the environment, always choose a non-fluorinated biodegradable wax.
See 7.5 for storage maintenance.
7.4 Edge Tuning
It’s supremely important that your skis are tuned correctly. Most importantly this includes the angle of your edges. (It also includes grinding the base and polishing the edges). Talk to the ski tuner about your skill level, abilities and what terrain you’re planning to ski in, this will help them tune your skis perfectly for you.
It is important to detune your edges, especially directly under the bindings, if you plan on hitting park features, to reduce the risk of edge cracks and catching, resulting in a fall.
If you are interested in tuning your own skis there are lots of excellent websites with more information.
7.5 Storing your skis
Don’t neglect your skis when it stops snowing! Store your skis somewhere away from heat and damp to avoid rusting. If you can coat your skis in a layer of wax before storing this is even better as it will prevent rust and ensure your base does not dry out. If your edges do rust, you should take them to your local shop to have them professionally tuned to remove the rust and make sure they are ready to be on snow again.
7.6 Tips to keep your skis looking good for years
Be careful when cleaning the snow off your skis with the other ski. If you hit the metal edge against the plastic top sheet it will eventually damage it (for example many people do this while sitting on chairlifts).
Be careful when putting your skis down or carrying them - if you bang them into a hard object (concrete/metal stairs/ceiling etc.) you can cause damage to them.
Use a velcro/rubber strap to keep your skis together and even better store them in a padded bag at all times.
If you transport your skis in racks on your car, they should be wiped down afterwards, to remove any salt/dirt from the road that may have gotten on them.
Make sure to bring them inside after skiing, to allow them to properly dry, so that the edges do not rust.
8. BINDINGS AND MOUNTING
8.1 WHERE SHOULD I MOUNT MY BINDINGS?
All our skis come with a recommended mounting point that is marked on the ski.
The recommended line is where the boot centre line is (as below), which is where we recommend you mount the ski - this is the point the ski has been designed to be skied on, depending on its use case. For example, our park skis have a more forward mounting point.
For our 22|23 collection, we are introducing a new mounting point system on all our skis, which has three recommended mounting spots: Newschool, Progressive and Classic, all of which are separated by 15 mm. However, we only have one marked on each ski. The Newschool mount (30 mm forward) is designed for people that want a playful ski, for twin tip inspired riding. The Progressive mount (15 mm forward) is great for versatility, carving and slashing - people that want a more balanced ski but don’t want too forward of a mount. The Classic mount (marked) is designed to offer optimal carving ability and float in deep snow, giving you the most tip length of any mount.
Ultimately, the mounting position of your skis comes down to personal preference and your style of skiing. Some chose to mount the skis further to the front or back of the ski depending on what they want to focus on.
We do not recommend mounting your skis at true center as it has more disadvantages than advantages, even if you only ski park, as it will put you too far ahead of the sidecut of the ski, and negatively impact performance.
Because mounting bindings is a very specific process, we strongly recommend getting the skis mounted by a professional. For example, if the screws are over tightened, it can strip the holes and create a situation where the screws can potentially come out of the ski. If this happens we will not warranty the ski.
Never try to adjust your own bindings without adequate training, this should be left to a professional. Adjusting your own bindings can result in bindings not releasing properly, which can result in injury.
8.2 MOUNTING A MONOSKI
Mounting a monoski is a more complicated process, as a normal self-centering binding jig will not fit over the ski. There are a number of ways of aligning everything correctly, but this is the system that we have found works and use:
Draw a line directly across the ski from the mounting line
Measure the width of the ski, and make a mark in the center of the ski, using that to draw a perpendicular line to the mounting mark, in the center of the ski, the length of the bindings
Mark a parallel line 5.5cm from the center line on each side of the ski, which are the center lines for each of the bindings
Set bindings on the ski on the line, to verify that the bindings are not hanging over the edge. Set boots on the ski in this position, to verify that the boots are not touching and can be mounted at this position. If the bindings are over the edge of the ski too much, or the boots are touching and would interfere with engaging the bindings properly, adjust the center line as needed, assuring that it is still parallel to the center line. 5.5cm works for most situations, but exceptionally wide bindings or boots may need slight compensations.
Raise jigs over the line so the feet are not touching (jig boots or sections of wood under the jig are good for this) and clamp the jig in place, so that the jig is flat and centered over the line. It helps to drop drill bits into identical holes to see that they are both the same distance from the line.
- Drill holes as normal.
Before bindings are mounted, it is necessary to cut the inside brakes on each binding off, so that the outside ones still release properly in the case of release.
9.1 DELIVERY TIMES
You will receive a tracking number once your order is dispatched. If you haven’t received a tracking number after 4-5 working days, please contact us at email@example.com.
Delivery times vary depending on an order’s destination. The below chart gives an estimate of standard shipping times from the moment your order is shipped. Please note that these figures are merely estimates and never guaranteed; public holidays, peak season processing or incomplete shipping addresses may delay the delivery of your order.
Please note: we do not ship to Sweden, Norway or PO Boxes.
At peak times, we have a large amount of orders going out. Please be patient and leave enough time to order your skis if you have a ski trip coming up. If in doubt ask us before placing your order!
|Newfoundland & Labrador||5-10|
9.2 SHIPPING COSTS
We charge a flat rate shipping cost on all orders, depending on the region that it is shipping to. The costs are as follows:
Under 100€: 7€ shipping
Over 100€: Free shipping
Shipping is £30 for all orders.
Under 100 CHF: 10 CHF
Over 100 CHF: Free shipping
Under $100: $8 shipping
Over $100: Free shipping
Under $100: $10 shipping
Over $100: Free shipping
Under ¥15,000: ¥1,000 shipping
Over ¥15,000: Free shipping
Australia & New Zealand
$25 shipping on all orders
Please note that Pro Collective orders are not eligible for free shipping regardless of purchase price.
10. Where can I test skis?
We have demos during peak season, and also demo centres that allow you to demo our skis throughout the season.
You can find all our Demo events on our Facebook page here.
Your closest test centre can be found here.
You can find your closest shop in our storefinder.
We recommend calling the shop up and checking whether the ski you’re interested in is available before visiting, if it is not available they will often be able to get it in store within 5 working days or less.
11. Contact Us
We offer a two-year warranty on all products from the date of purchase against manufacturing defects. Damage caused by skiing on anything but snow is not covered under warranty. You can find our warranty policy and information on how to submit a claim here.
If you are not satisfied with your product, you may return it within 30 days of receiving it for a full refund or exchange, providing it is in a saleable condition. This means the skis must still be wrapped and not have been mounted/drilled. Please note that orders placed through The Pro Collective are not eligible for free returns. Start the return process here.
11.3 Want to be sponsored by Faction?
We carefully consider who we choose to sponsor. You can make your application through our website, but please be understanding if you do not receive a reply quickly – we are genuinely stoked that you are keen to join the Faction Collective but get a lot of applications every day and we make sure we read each and everyone. Apply here.
11.4 Pro Program
If you’re a mountain or outdoor industry professional and live by your equipment, we think you should pay less. Our TPC program allows us to offer exclusive pricing to mountain and industry professionals on selected products. Apply here.
11.5 How to become a Faction Dealer
We’re always stoked to work with new shops, please send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org letting us know where you are in the world, what products you are interested in and if you have stocked Faction before and a member of our team will guide you through next steps.
11.6 Help us improve
Any other questions, queries? We’d love to hear from you – for any comments, errors or ideas you have which will help us make Factionskis.com better, please let us know using the form on the contact us page.